http://www.fruit-emu.com/forums/files/file/507-andy-capp-1280-dx/

just got this.when i try to spin the reels, it just says REEL A SPIN ALM

help please

Hi there was doing dungeons n drag queeens awp dx but the flyers a bit ropey so that may become a classic 

so was thinking of doing this next, the flyer(s) are for £15jp i had various rom sets from killcrazy and the sounds afaik but what ever set i use first it asks for the correct stake/jp key so i assume its fr the £25 version, secondly when the machine initializes the reels spin but reel 1 faults and juggers

here;s the layout in wip form (lamped for dungeons atm) and the roms i have cheers

thanks in advance v666 

if nowt happens then its back to the drawing board for me lol.

Hi there folks, if you've been reading my little blogs about my new machine then you'll soon realise I know a little bit about machines but not a lot most of the time I have to guess what the problem is and work around the issues that are in-front of me. Take Teething problems day 2 issue. Had a little problem with colour change on the bottom monitor but didnt realsie how easy it would be to repair the problem so as I didnt know I thought about what little training I'd had on my 3 month training course at Bispham College which was too much paperwork on Health and safety and very little machine repair work. This is why I know a little but not a lot. So I spent almost 3 hours trying to sort out the monitor problem before giving up and going to bed frustrated at my lack of knowledge. I knew I was on the right track but the word is thought I was on the right track but new technology got In my way. There I said it the big T (Trouble) and the big P (problem) in the same sentence and not screaming at myself for getting into this sort of mess.

Now for all those who wish a fast forward button to skip to the end of my little rant about how much I'd learned about machine repair in three months. Then here goes you got your wish

Solution to the mega problem was staring me in the face when I pulled the lead out of the back of the bottom monitor I should have pulled the lead out of the pc part swapped the leads over as the top monitor as auto adjust on it and once the colour had gone back to normal swap the lead back Hey presto one fixed machine wow. Thanks Dave for the solution from Wessex coins for that.

The good thing here is that I've actually learned something new that two new things in 2 days wow I love my new machine.

First let me get my apologie out of the way to Chasbons I tried to stick to one thread but this is a new question about Triple 7 demo uploads not errors with my new machine. So I'm Sorry in advance for this okay

Triple 777 demo issues. Iast night I followed a link and found a whole page of demo bpaks I could add to my machine okay so I copied them to a USB went to install them on my machine and came quickly unstuck.

On a Rio Enhanced you use a USB on the pc section and install your update okay so when I went to do this and there's no place on the board to insert a usb  apart from the 4 on top but they don't seem to recognise there is a usb stick installed so the 4 main usbs are being used by the machine and there is no other spare like the rio enhanced machine so can any one assit me with where to upload my demo games to my machine please. Now my second question here is can I safely remove one of the four usbs to add a demo usb or not? As I'd like to play with these games? now this also leads me on to another question. Can I use a dual usb connector so i can upload the demos to my computer or am I over thinking the process and there's a simple way please help 

Seen the manual but it tells me nothing about how to upload and why its different  from the Rio enhanced machine like I've explained above.

If some nice person on here could assist me then it'll be cool okay thanks anyone and once again mate I'm Sorry to Chasnbons for using a new thread as well as my old thread but I wanted it to be seen okay.

Hi, this is going out to any Homer's Meltdown/Simpsons Epoch owners, AKA Johnyafc? Got a major problem with these 2 machines. Well, on some features I get offered a repeat chance, but I know that you can get them on the JP as I've heard it on one of Spa's videos. Can anyone help me mod these machines to do this on the JP? Also had it myself at Yarmouth, left with a tenor, not bad ay? Had to concentrate a lot as the sound wasn't too loud like in most arcades where Homer and his family are bellowing themselves horse lol. Is there also a way to control the sound volume on Epoch tech? Yeah I can just use the volume control on my lappy but I want to simulate the arcades where the speaker distorts. Thanks for looking and any replies are welcome.

Hi guys, 

 I need some help setting up my pac drive led controller... 

firstly do i need a program to make it run with mfme, like LED blinky or MALA 

and secondly i think ive messed up. after reading one of reg's comments i noticed he said to order it with all the special inputs set to off... i havent done this. is there a way i can configure the pacdrive or shall i just order another one correctly this time?

i found pac drive menu under config before i open up a machine but MFME wont let me select anything? 

Cheers Andy 

Just thrown this together using some small photo's,parts of a flyer and some redrawing,still got some bits to sort out like the coin bezzal and decals,Shouldn't take too long once i've got the lamps sorted out.

Here's another i've just put together using an ebay photo,it's another extreme clubber,this is in the older genesis cab,will be using reg's fine classic to base the dx on.The cash decals seem to be really grainy as the pic wasn't that clear on the right hand side,i will try to source better ones or draw them in.

Hit there folks as I'm giving away my two rio enhanced machines to anyone who wants them for free I originally listed them with minor faults having checked both machines I can know list a couple of faults there are but not all of them.

1: Machine One (Cashino 500)

 Faults

​Top door lock seems to stick a little

it needs the new coin mechanism for the new £1 coin

there is a flashing light problem I have 12 green 2 red  but can't find  the exact fault on that one because I found the rio manual but not the enhanced rio manual.

Side door lock is sticky

both monitors work fine but the video needs reimaging yet again I think but am not quite sure about this  if you can solve the 12-2 problem then it may solve the problem with the monitors.

2: Grand Casino

 New coin mech for the new coin system but cant get the game on but there isn't a problem with the flashing lights so it may need reimaging yet again.

So minor faults not to major so if someone wants two machines with slight faults with one main game and 12 demo games then reply to this message for details you'll need your own transport or arrange for a pick up truck to come and get then from Blackpool. Please remember there FREE  to someone who wants to ticker around with a machine or two the cost isn't that much to get them up and running.

hi hopefully going to have a bash at making this clubber by jpm on scorp4 tech which seams odd trouble is firstly the image i have via jpm's site is very small so very poor does anybody have a higher quality image please, next and it could be a major problem with the layout but whilst finding lamps and playing about with it, when you get a win the machine really slows down and the lamps go out slowly towards the base of the machine before giving you the chance to gamble, so could be a emulation issue i'll find out more when the lamps/reel symbols identified  

hey guy i would just like to tell you guys i ave a you tube channel where i do arcade tours  and real  slots game play such as party time andy capp  and adders and ladders £4 jackpots that i found  i also hunt down the older stuff that you guys make and play on here. so if you want to come and check out my content and reminisce of old times just click the link and enjoy.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM0YdPEX-v0sNwyVib552mA

Is it just me, but it's surprising at how many machines come up for sale on Ebay after they have been emulated. Some sellers seem to be asking silly money for machines as well.

For many years, I considered getting a fruit machine for home, but once I found the emulator, the idea just didn't seem worth it. I'd probably be annoyed at spending time/money to get a machine, then it gets emulated.

Have any of you sold a machine, because it has been emulated or would you if the machine you owned suddenly was emulated. Or can you still not beat owning the real machine?

 Again something a little unusual in the pipeline.

Casino Clubber, first basic DX on MFME5.X from me.

Yes, it is in Black and White, running on Epoch Tech.

Thanks to Reg again for Input & Tech support.

 CasRoy.bmp   2MB   7 downloads

Sorry not sure how to insert direct pictures....

anybody remember this really crap lo tech from Electrocoin? not a lot going on,but was wondering A: if its emulateable and B:are there any resources for it? would love to see it as it robbed  me blind back in the day lol

Boughta cloner bought two hard drives same code has the the original in my machine copied both tested both result blue screen of death on both hard drives couldnt understand why so checked original nothing wrong with that lucky for me. Checked cloner worked once stopped working wouldn't even read the original drive. Order 2 new cloners and 3 more drives hopefully this time I'll get one to work watch this space for updates.

Perhaps the element most important to the fruit machine, the diminutive light bulb.

One of the more simple electronic components too, apply a voltage to the contacts of the bulb, the filament heats up and as a by product it radiates heat and light, Easy.

But when it comes to emulation, because of their analogue nature, one of the more difficult properties to display in a realistic manner.

When I first joined the FME scene back when I was 14 [Insert strumming harp sounds] over at the now defunct mpuworld I tried to play a game called Place Your Bets, by Barcrest. I was informed by the regulars, some of whom may still be amongst us, that it wasn't playable because it used dimmed lamping on the nudges stack, so you never knew how many nudges you had as every nudge lamp would be lit. Those of you who have played this machine will know the importance of the nudge stack.

At the time I vaguely remember someone [probably Wizard or Dialtone] posting a more technical explanation as to what was going on and to be honest it flew so far above my head that my hair didn't even ruffle, yes, I had hair back then too.

I always thought at the time that it should be solvable, and all these years later I think I might be close to the solution, but it is far more complex a problem than I thought it would be. So join me as I take a look and try to, ahem, shed some light on the situation. [Pause for laughter][what, no laughter][fine]

Part 1 looks at how the lamps are driven, and some of the solutions offered so far.

There are 2 ways lamps are driven [powered] by fruit machines. The rarest is a direct drive where a lamp is connected to a single output, these are mainly found in older electromechanical machines, though Barcrest and BWB did do something similar by attaching a string of 8 lamps in series to a triac connection, usually for general illumination such as machine logos or belly panels. Club Connect, Blues Boys, & Road Hog do this to name a few. These are simple, and the state of the lamp (on or off) can be directly assumed from whatever emulated out is driving it.

The second way, which is by far the most common, is to use a multiplexed grid of lamps. In my example I will mostly be referring to JPM's IMPACT tech, but multiplexers work the same way on whatever tech they are on, they just vary in size and refresh rate.

IMPACT has 16 strobe lines, and 16 data lines, giving a total of (16 * 16) 256 lamps that can be used.

From a programming standpoint, they are very easy to use...

Set the strobe to 0, set the data lines to turn on or off lamps 0 to 15;

Set the strobe to 1, set the data lines to turn on or off lamps 16 to 31;

Set the strobe to 2, set the data lines to turn on or off lamps 32 to 47;

Set the strobe to 3, set the data lines to turn on or off lamps 48 to 63;

and so on until strobe = 15, and you have set the data for all lamps.

You then repeat the process over and over very quickly (known as the refresh rate).

The idea is that the process is repeated so fast that when the bulbs are on the power comes back round to them before they have a chance to completely cool down and still look lit up even though they aren't powered.

IMPACT's Roller Coaster has a refresh rate of ~66.6Hz. It's entirely likely that all IMPACT games use the same base operating system, and therefore all have a refresh rate of 66.6Hz but as the multiplexer is driven entirely by software it could theoretically be changed from game to game, though this is unlikely as there is no real need and programmers don't make more work for themselves if they don't have to.

Obviously you can't have something happening .6 of the time, if you measured how many times the multiplexer is driven in any one second, it would either be 66 or 67 times, but on average over many seconds, it works out to approximately 66.6.

The bulbs used in most machines are 10mm ,Wedge, 12 Volt, 1.2 Watt types. Newer machines tend to use the 5mm variant but the output light remains almost identical.

I'm not going to get too heavilly into the maths side of it today, just a general overview of what the problem is, I can get in to specifics later, and there's a lot of them when we get there.

If there are 16 strobes, and the time they are on is evenly split, then each bulb will only be powered for a maximum of 1/16th of the time. It is actually a little bit less than that but for basic purposes 1/16 of the time is a good figure.

So if we fed 12 Volts to the bulbs and then multiplex them, they would be very dim as they are not on for much of time, so they are actually driven by 50v AC, which is present in the machine for driving the payouts.

First of all, 12v is the rated DC voltage, and the supply is AC. Because AC voltage is actually a sine wave rather than a constant voltage, we have to use a formula to find what the (Root Means Squared) RMS or equivalent DC voltage is.

RMS Voltage = (Input AC Voltage / Square Root of 2)

So RMS Voltage = (50 / 1.4142) = 35.36 Volts.

Then we need to calculate to RMS voltage going to the bulb after the multiplexer.

There is another formula for this

RMS Voltage = (Input Voltage * Square root of (Frequency * Duration))

The frequency is the same as the refresh rate 66.6, and the duration is the time was actually powered up during the cycle.

These vary with measurement but a typical example would be..

RMS Voltage = (35.36 * Square Root of (67.93 * 0.0092)) = 8.838 Volts

Roughly 9 Volts. Which is well within spec for this type of bulb.

IMPACT runs at 8MHz, which is 8,000,000 Hz or Cycles Per Second. The time take from a lamp being powered, to being powered again is ~110,000 cycles, and the lamp will be powered for ~7,500 cycles during that period.

So if you want the lamps to be brighter, the total period would remain the same, but you would increase the number of cycles the lamp is powered for. Similarly if you want to dim the lamp you would reduce the number of cycles the lamp is powered for.

This is for lamps in normal operation. For the super bright flashes, they stop the multiplexer running completely for a fraction of a second and drive the lamps to be flashed at ~35 Volts. Quickly restarting the multiplexer again before the filament gets too hot and blows the bulb. Though I have been informed by a few techs that the bulbs that were flashed blew quite often anyway.

So from the programmers point of view, that's how multiplexers work, and how they control the lamping in the machine. Quite straight forward really, also has the advantage that AC experiences less power loss than DC, and because each bulb is for a maximum of 1/16 the time, it saves power at the socket too. And on top of that, control of 256 lamps from just 32 wires, saving money on buying copper cable.

From the emulation point of view, however, running a lamp simulation in real time is just possible now, but even my overclocked CPU is maxxed out [on one core] to produce the 60FPS I have the emulator locked to. So while viable, not really the best solution, and was certainly not an option back when Fruit.exe was being brought to fruitiion. I imagine most people now own smartphones more powerful than the PC's the original emulators were written on.

So this is not a knock on Wizard, DT, or Re_A, but now that time has moved on and we have much faster PC's there might be a way. [There is a way to be sure]

Looking from the outside in, and the behaviour of the lamps in the new MFME, I'm guessing that the RMS voltage is being calculated and then used as a multiplier of the bitmap brightness. It has the side effect of wiping the ripple effects out of the lamping, which some will say is a good thing, and for dsiplay on an LCD it probably makes sense to smooth out the brightness. But personally I like to see the ripple effects, as they are part of the personality of the machine and how it looks sat in the dark corner of a room. I am not saying it is better or worse, it's just different, and thats fine and perfectly valid, but just not the look I want to emulate.

The key to the problem is to take the simulation one step further and keep track of the lamp filament temperature. So when powered on it heats up, and when unpowered cools down. The multiplexer is driven fast enough that bulbs are heated before the bulb has a chance to completely cool and stop giving out light.

From this we can ascertain the brightness of the light at any given time, and also colour correct it to look like the real thing.

As a filament heats up it will start off giving out a red light, then orange, then yellow, then white, and then thru shades of blue. Although most tungsten filaments reach equalibrium temperature somewhere in the orange to yellow spectrum. Google "Kelvin colour chart" to see images explaining this more clearly. The super bright flashes will be bright white maybe even slightly blue coloured.

Which later on, when we get on to displaying the results, will become very handy indeed.

And that's about it for part 1. Which will continue when I have had a chance to get the filament heating calculation sorted. Next time I'll get in to how to calculate the lamp temperature and keep track of it in real time.

If any of you have made it this far, well done, feel free to ask questions.

Hey guys, had a rare trip to my local, Quicksilver. the engineer was fixing an electrocoin Bar-X machine. How can I make it do that horrible fire truck like alarm? Tried forcing coins in, it kept accepting coins until full. I can make the Scorp 5 BarxXtreme do the alarm and also view it in the samples. I also think OXO has the same alarm. If anyone has an MP3, please attach it below. Thanks, It's just I need a decent alarm tone for my iPhone, apple ones are crap! It's for my 7 o'clock A.M. meds.